It’s Sunday! Where Can I Eat in Paris?
As you have undoubtedly noticed, many restaurants in Paris shut down on Sundays. Here is a list of Abby-tested and Abby-approved restaurants, cafés and bars that are open on Sundays (with “**” indicating some of my real favorites). I will be using this list myself from now on!
As always, be sure to call ahead to make sure opening hours have not changed and if possible, to reserve a table in advance. Remember that many restaurants close on holidays, during school vacations and for most of the month of August. I’d like to keep this list up to date, so please let me know if you discover that any of the restaurants listed below are no longer open on Sunday!
• **Kong (1st) 1, rue du Pont-Neuf (5th floor of the Kenzo store) Tel. 01 40 39 09 00. French/Asian fusion. Pricey (€15-20 for appetizers, €25-35 for mains) but excellent food and a great view looking out through the glass roof. Offers Sunday brunch.
• Le Café Marly (1st) in the Louvre (Tel. 01 49 26 06 60, technically 93 Rivoli but it’s in the courtyard of the Louvre by the big glass pyramid). It’s a Costes brothers restaurant, which means the food can be a bit hit or miss but I’m a big fan of the shrimp or scallops dishes. A bit pricey and not always the friendliest service but despite all this it’s worth it for the location: great view of Louvre from terrace. Good for tea or drinks too (especially if you hit it at sunset), open late.
• L’Ardoise (1st) 28, rue du Mont-Thabor, Tel: 01 42 96 28 18. The food is traditional but not too heavy, €33 3-course menu with at least 10 options for each course. The service can be slow. It’s better for dinner as lunch is pricey—still €33. Open Sundays (evening only).
• Le Fumoir, (1st) 6, rue de l’Amiral-de-Coligny, Tel: 01 42 92 00 24. Good for lunch, dinner or just drinks. Great lounge/old library feel. Best to reserve ahead unless you’re just going late for drinks. Open 11h00-2h00.
• Le Grand Colbert (2nd) 2, rue Vivienne, Tel: 01 42 86 87 88. A bit pricey, but huge selection, excellent seafood and great brasserie décor—where the last scene in “Something’s Gotta Give” was filmed. Open noon to midnight (for last orders; doors close at 1AM.)
• Chez Janou (3rd) (2, rue Roger-Verlomme Tel. 01 42 72 28 41) Very popular among the tourists. I hesitated to keep it on the list as it’s crowded and a bit of a scene, but the food is solid and it can be a fun atmosphere; my guests from out of town often ask if we can go there.
• Restaurant Georges (4th) on the 6th floor of the Pompidou Center (Tel. 01 44 78 47 99)—modern French, great views of the city. A bit pricey, quite trendy (certainly not your typical cozy French bistro) but the food tends to be a bit less hit or miss than at some of the Costes brothers restaurants; a good pick for a special occasion. Open every day but Tuesday.
• Cru (4th) 7, rue Charlemagne, Tel. 01 40 27 81 84. Featuring mostly (though not entirely) raw meats and fish, this restaurant is not for everyone. But if you’re intrigued, the food is quite good (I recommend the duck ravioli which is actually not raw) and the setting is quite inviting. Open for Sunday lunch but not dinner.
• Le Coude Fou (4th), 12 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (right near Hotel de Ville metro), Tel. 01 42 77 15 16. Small, unassuming place with traditional fare. Open every day noon to 2AM.
• Mon Vieil Ami (4th on Ile St-Louis), 69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Tel. 01 40 46 01 35. Great setting, the food is a bit traditional for my tastes, but recommended if you are looking for more traditional southwestern French cooking with a bit of innovation. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
• **Chez Lena et Mimile (5th) 32 Rue Tournefort, Tél: 01 47 07 72 47. Open every day 12h to 14h30 & 19h to 23h. Huge terrasse, great setting in a quiet part of the Latin quarter but near rue Mouffetard. Mix of Spanish, French and Italian cuisine. The inside is cozy for winter. The linguine with shellfish sauce was especially good. A big hit with all my friends.
• Le Coupe-Chou (5th) 9-11, rue de Lanneau, Tel. 01 46 33 68 69. The food is pricey for being relatively mediocre but the building is amazing—from the 13th century. Open every day for lunch and dinner, though lunch by reservation only May through August.
• **Café Pères et Filles (6th) 8, rue de Seine, Tel. 01 43 25 00 28. Traditional French cuisine that is not too heavy. It’s becoming one of my favorite summer spots for the large outdoor seating area.
• **Bouillon Racine (6th) 3, rue Racine, Tel. 01 44 32 15 60. The colorful, early 20th century art nouveau décor makes it one of the most memorable brasseries I have been too. Traditional French food but also great salads, soups. Neat little bar. One of my favorites.
• **Eggs & Co. (formerly Coco & Co.) (6th) 11 Bernard Palissy. Tiny little place in a very old building. They specialize in egg dishes—best omelets ever. Good for brunch/lunch but reserve ahead. It’s closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
• **Fish La Boissonnerie (6th) 69, rue de Seine, Tel. 01 43 54 34 69. Cute little restaurant with good seafood, but some meat on the menu as well. Set price meals €31.50 for app+main or main+dessert, €36.50 for app+main+dessert. Good wine list and great foccaccia bread. Reservations necessary.
• Germain (6th), 25-27 rue de Buci, Tel. 01 43 26 02 93. The newest Costes restaurant. Appealing menu (especially the scallops if they are in season) for more New York style food. Trendy, a bit pricey, the music’s too loud later at night. Best to go on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon (open “non-stop”).
• Le Christine (6th), 1 rue Christine, Tel. 01 40 51 71 64. Traditional French food, cute atmosphere.
• Café de Flore (open 7AM – 2AM), Les Deux Magots, Brasserie Lipp (open 9AM – 1AM) (6th)—these are the three famous ones on St. Germain. Perhaps worth going for the experience, though I think the food is quite overrated. If you have to go to one, pick the Deux Magots. Drinks (even non-alcoholic) at all of them are very pricey.
• Le Bamboche (7th) 15 rue de Babylone, Tel. 01 45 49 14 40. Cute place by the Bon Marché with great gourmet food and a very friendly (very pro-USA) owner. The €32 menu is a great value, though à la carte is expensive, as is the wine. Open Sundays for dinner (not for lunch).
• Market (8th), 15 ave Matignon. Tel.: 01 56 43 40 90. A Jean Georges restaurant: modern but cozy ambience, fine food though pricey.
• Café de la Paix (9th) Place de l’Opera, Tel. 01 40 07 36 36. The restaurant is quite pricey but you can have a sandwich or salad in the brasserie with the same ornate décor (still €10-12 for a glass of wine though).
• Hotel Amour (9th), 8 rue Navarin, Tel.: 01 48 78 31 80. Cute place for brunch or dinner, with a fantastic greenhouse/patio in warmer weather.
• Hôtel du Nord (10th) 102 quai de Jemmapes (along the Canal St. Martin) Tel.: 01 40 40 78 78. Trendy, attractive restaurant with good food. There’s a bar and a terrace along the canal in the summer.
• L’Echappée (11th) 64, rue de la Folie Mericourt. Tel. 01 58 30 12 50. It’s actually a spa but has a cute little restaurant for lunch, light dinner or Saturday/Sunday brunch. Need to reserve in advance.
• **L’Huitrier (17th) 16, rue Saussier Leroy, off Marché Poncelet, Tel.: 01 40 54 83 44. Great for oysters, fresh seafood in general. Friendly service. I’m a big fan of the shrimp grilled in garlic sauce and the tuna tartare. For some reason, they have the best ice cream in the world—from a small shop in the 17th called Mr. Ice. Not cheap but a good deal for seafood. Open on Sundays and holidays (but closed Mondays).
• Le Relais de la Butte (18th), 12, rue Ravignan, Tel. 01 42 23 24 34. It’s hard to find a decent restaurant in Montmartre but this restaurant is just slightly off the main tourist route and the food is of good quality and service is friendly.
• Rosa Bonheur (19th) 2, allée de la Cascade in Buttes Chaumont Park, nearest Bozartis metro (access through gates opposite 74 rue de Botzaris), Tel. 01 42 00 00 45, email@example.com. Open Wed to Sun, 12 noon to midnight. Bar, dancing, tapas, though a more formal restaurant in the winter—changes based on the season. Great for summer evening drinks & tapas but get there early (6:00pm) to avoid the long line to get in!
• Mama Shelter (20th), 109 rue Bagnolet (closet metro is Gambetta or Alexandre Dumas). A very modern space with individual tables for dining, family-style dining tables and several bars. New French cuisine. Worth the trek if you are looking for something different, relaxed, and have the time to take advantage of the space.
• **Restaurant l’Ile (Issy Les Moulineaux), 170 Quai de Stalingrad, Tel. 01 41 09 99 99. In the heart of the Parc Ile St. Germain, it’s not the easiest place to get to without a car (your best bet is the RER C to Issy Val de Seine (about 20 min from St Michel) then a 15 min walk or taxi) but well worth the trip, especially on a nice day when you can enjoy a walk around the park before or after. Beautiful setting with huge glassed-in and outdoor terraces. Large menu that’s cheaper than you might expect for a place that’s rather fancy like this.
• Anahi (3rd) 49 Rue Volta, Tel. 01 48 87 88 24. The steak at this small Argentine restaurant is some of the best I’ve had in Paris and the space is intimate and inviting. The service is very friendly. Unfortunately it’s pricey (€60 or so per person) but worth a trip for a special occasion. Open every day 8PM – 2AM.
• Le Relais de l’Entrecôte (6th), 20, rue Saint-Benoît (just north of Blvd St. Germain), Tel. 01 45 49 16 00. Not as good as Gourmet des Ternes but it’s solid, a well-known institution. They have other locations as well.
• Le Fumoir (1st) —see above under “French”.
• **A Priori Thé (2nd) 35 Galerie Vivienne (off rue des Petits-Champs), Tel. 01 42 97 48 75. Innovative and tasty brunch—à la carte for €14-€16 euros but it’s worth it to get the full €30 brunch on Sundays and don’t miss the real American cheesecake. When you reserve, ask for a seat in the (covered) courtyard.
• The Pompidou Center (3rd) has a café that is great for people-watching if you are visiting the exhibits and are looking for a bite to eat. You do not need a ticket to the museum to get to the café.
• Marché des Enfants Rouges (3rd), 39 rue de Bretagne. Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: 8:30-1PM and 4PM-7: 30PM. Friday, Saturday- 8h30AM-1PM and 4PM-8PM. Sunday: 8:30AM–2PM The oldest food market in Paris (1615). It’s a normal market but also has some great lunch spots (mostly outdoor setaing) for a variety of cuisines (Japanese, Carribean, Italian, Middle Eastern, etc.)
• **Cosi (6th) 54, rue de Seine, Tel: 01 46 33 35 36. Best sandwiches ever (on focaccia bread) and great salads too. I go here way too often, it’s embarrassing. The Cosi chain in the U.S. is supposedly a knock-off of this one. Good for take-out (picnics on the Pont des Arts!) but they do have tables upstairs. Open 7 days/week 12 noon until 11PM.
• **Eggs & Co. (formerly Coco & Co.) (6th) 11 Bernard Palissy (see above under “French”).
• **Mariages Frères (6th), 13 Rue des Grands Augustins, Metro St-Michel, phone: 014-051-8250 (pricey, but an institution)—famous for the 100s of varieties of tea; the snob salad and tea-infused desserts are great. Other locations as well (Marais—4th, Faubourg Saint-Honoré—8th).
• **Ladurée (6th), 21 Rue Bonaparte (for the famous French macaroons and other sweets). I prefer it for lunch. The mains are pricey but they have great salads and reasonably priced club sandwiches. Other locations as well (place Madeleine, Champs-Elysées—the Champs-Elysées location is my favorite).
• L’Heure Gourmande (6th) 22, passage Dauphine, Tel. 01 46 34 00 40. Hours: Mon. to Sun. 12 p.m. to 7 p.m. Cozy interior and nice, quiet terrace, great for tea or hot chocolate.
• The Musée d’Orsay (7th) has a classy café if you are visiting the museum and get hungry. You do need a ticket to the museum to access the café. Closed Mondays.
• Café at the Petit Palais (8th), Avenue Winston Churchill, Tel. 01 53 43 40 00. The food is a bit pricey and not the best selection, but if you are going to the Petit Palais anyways for an exhibition, it’s worth it to stop off for a glass of wine/coffee at the café—it’s one of the nice terraces in Paris. Closed Mondays and holidays.
• Le Valentin (9th), 32, Passage Jouffroy, Tel. 01 47 70 88 50. A fantastic bakery for sweets, quiches, etc. with a sit-down area for quiches, coffee and a lunch menu, etc. Passage Jouffroy and the connecting Passage des Panoramas (old shopping arcades) are well worth a visit even if you don’t stop to eat. Open 8AM – 7PM.
• Hotel Amour (9th), 8 rue Navarin, Tel.: 01 48 78 31 80. A great pick for Sunday brunch. (See above under “French”).
• Chez Lena et Mimile (5th)—see above under “French”.
• Fogón (6th) 45, quai des Grands-Augustins, Tel. 01 43 54 31 33. Very good paella and fancier tapas. Great selection of paellas, though not the best selection of tapas. Closed Mondays.
• O’Scia (2nd) 44 Rue Tiquetonne, Tel. 01 75 77 23 18. Some of the best pizza in Paris in a cozy, old building in the Montorgueil pedestrian zone. I ordered the O’Scia Pizza (tomato, mozzarella and eggplant) and would go back and order the same thing again next time! Open Sundays only for dinner.
• Le Curieux Spaghetti + Bar (4th), 14 rue Saint Merri, Tel. 01 42 72 75 97. They have an odd mix of food—good spaghetti (though not as good as in a real Italian restaurant) with a variety of toppings, big portions. They also have hamburgers, salads, some Asian-style food, cocktails. A good pre-going out or late-night food stop as it turns into a bar later on. Open Sunday to Wednesday 12pm-2am and Thurs to Saturday 12pm to 4am.
• **Chez Lena et Mimile (5th)—see above under “French”.
• **Au club des Siciliens (6th) 18 rue du Dragon, Tel. 01 42 84 16 08. My other go-to place for Sundays and late dinners. Oreo tiramisu…need I say more?
• **Santa Lucia (6th) 22 rue des Canettes, Tel.: +33 1 43 26 42 68. Not as quiet as some of the other Italian restaurants in the area but it may be slightly cheaper as well. The antipasti and pizzas are great and if they have the truffle pasta in a parmesan cheese bowl special, don’t pass it up. Open on Sundays.
• La Locanda (6th) 8 rue du Dragon, Tel. 01 45 44 12 53. My go-to place on Sundays as it’s open for lunch & dinner. Very friendly owner. I’m a fan of the penne à la vodka.
• Le Cherche Midi (6th), 22 rue du Cherche Midi, tel. 08 99 69 00 06. Small, bistro-feel. Everything is very fresh..
•Pizza Vesuvio (6th) 1, rue Gozlin, Tel: 01 43 54 94 78. The pizza is good, the other food isn’t as good as at the other restaurants, but you can get a small pizza to go for €3. They also have decent salads to go.
• Findi (8th), 24, avenue George V – Paris 75008, Tel.: 01 47 20 14 78, Metro George V. A bit fancy and expensive compared to some of the others but the food is excellent.
• Vinoteca (8th) 32, rue de Courcelles, Tel. 01 53 96 07 68. Pricey but quite good.
• Visconti (8th) 89 Boulevard de Courcelles, Tel. 01 43 80 78 22. Visconti does not look like anything special from the outside but it’s some of the best pizza and pasta in the Etoile/Ternes area and one of the few restaurants that don’t give you a hard time if you bring a stroller!
• La Pizzetta (9th), 22 avenue Trudaine, Tel. 01 48 78 14 08. Perhaps the best pizza I’ve had in Paris (try the one with roquette, tomato and mozzarella di bufala!) Open Sundays only for lunch.
• Pizzeria Da Carmine (9th) 61, rue des Martyrs, Tel. 01 48 78 28 01. Despite its poor ratings on TripAdvisor, the pizza is some of the best in Paris. The ambience is nothing to write home about (though I did spend Easter dinner here one year); they run a take-out business as well. Apparently the schedule varies so be sure to call ahead and make sure it’s open on the particular Sunday you are looking to go.
• **Delitaly (17th) 23, Rue Poncelet, Tel: 01 48 88 00 72. Excellent pasta and wine. I like their penne del inferno (all’arrabbiata) and the tagliatelle with mushrooms and truffle sauce. The burrata is quite good. They also have a small food/traiteur shop a few doors down.
• **Rice & Beans (2nd), 22 rue Greneta, Tel. 01 73 70 46 09. A great little hole-in-the-wall place that just opened in late 2010 near Etienne Marcel. California-style burritos and tacos, home-made super spicy sauce and low prices (€5-€8.50 for a burrito), very friendly owner, sit-down or take-out.
• Candaleria (3rd) 52 rue de Saintonge, Tel. 03 42 74 41 28. This hole-in-the-wall Mexican joint with a trendy New York-style bar hidden through the back door was a wonderful spot until unfortunately it was discovered by the trend-seekers. It’s still worth a visit for the cheap tacos or a more expensive cocktail on the early side or on a week night. Closed Mondays.
• **Anahuacalli (5th), 30 rue des Bernadins, Tel. 01 43 26 10 20 (just north of Blvd St Germain, Metro Maubert), open for dinner every day and lunch only on Sundays—one of my favorite Mexican restaurants anywhere, not just in Paris! (My parents both insist on a visit to Anahua Calli whenever they are in town from the U.S.) Authentic cuisine (I’m a fan of the tú y yo appetizer plate, the enchiladas verdes and the mole), great margaritas, very friendly service.
• **Suan Thai (4th), 41 rue Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie between rue du Temple and rue des Archives, Tel. 01 42 77 10 20, closed Mondays. Reasonable menu deals and my favorite Thai restaurant in Paris. I especially like their red curry and coconut flan.
• Sukho Thai (18th) 44 Rue Custine, Tel. 01 46 06 45 78. Excellent Thai food and perhaps the only one on this list that really knows what spicy means. Closed Mondays.
• Joe Allen (1st) 30, rue Pierre Lescot (right at Etienne Marcel metro), Tel. 01 42 36 70 13. The place to go if you are craving American pub food. It’s a bar and a restaurant: great burgers, steaks, American desserts, etc.
• Breakfast in America (5th) 17, Rue Ecoles, Tel.: 01 43 54 50 28. Open every day at 8:30AM (until 11PM), name says it all. It couldn’t hold a match to a real New York diner, but it’s about as close as we get in Paris.
• Loulou Friendly Diner (5th) 90 Blvd Saint-Germain, Tel. 01 46 34 86 64. A new addition, probably the best American diner in Paris. It’s still not 100% American but I’d say a good 95%. There are a number of options for real American brunch fare and the diner is open 7 days/week. Opens at 9AM on Sundays!
• Happy Days Diner (6th), 25 Francisque Gay, Tel. 01 43 29 67 07. Authentic American 50s décor. Great burgers, lemonade, milkshakes. There’s now a new location in the Marais too (Archives/Saint Croix de la Bretonnerie) Stay away from the brunch (eggs, etc.) though—it’s awful.
• Coffee Parisian (6th), Metro Odeon, 4 rue de Princesse, 01 43 54 18 18. American breakfasts, brunch, good burgers, bagels, nachos. Great milkshakes.
• **Ellis Island Café (7th), 5 rue Perronet, Tel: 01 40 49 08 08. The best American diner in Paris I have found yet, and they even know how to do eggs correctly. It’s been open for more than 20 years and still doing a booming business–be sure to reserve at least a couple of days in advance for weekend brunch.
• Bugsy’s (8th), 15 rue Montalivet, Tel 01 42 68 18 44. Irish pub and possibly the best burgers in Paris after Ferdi’s (although cheaper than Ferdi’s).
• Ravi (7th), 50, rue de Verneuil, Tel. 01 42 61 17 28. Pricey but very good. Exotic yet cozy décor. Open for dinner only on Sundays.
• **Restaurant Bibimbap (5th) 32 Boulevard de l’Hôpital, Tel. 01 43 31 27 42, firstname.lastname@example.org. The best Asian food I’ve had in Paris that doesn’t blow the budget. €23 – €28 will buy you a plentiful 2-course meal with fresh ingredients and efficient service.
• Le 404 (3rd), 69 rue des Gravilliers, 75003, Tel: 01 42 71 20 38, M°: Arts et Métiers. Le 404 has become a bit of a scene, but the food is still good and the décor is quite amazing. Just down the street is Andy Wahloo, a great Moroccan-themed, fun but not pretentious bar.
• **Liza (2nd), 14 rue de la Banque, Tel. 01 55 35 00 66. Fabulous décor, quiet restaurant, excellent authentic Lebanese food. Open for Sunday lunch only.
• L’as du falafel (kosher, falafel) (4th) on rue des Rosiers. A well-known institution; very good and cheap. Closed Friday after 5PM and Saturdays.
• Chez Marianne (4th) 2, Rue des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais (Tel. 01 42 72 18 86). Just off rue des Rosiers. Small and quiet. Excellent middle eastern foods, especially assortment of small dishes and desserts.
• **Kong (1st) 1, rue du Pont-Neuf (5th floor of the Kenzo store) Tel. 01 40 39 09 00. See above under “French”.
• Le magnifique (1st) 25, rue de Richelieu. It’s actual a lounge/bar but they have excellent, very fresh sushi (albeit a bit pricey and not a huge variety). For late-nighters only: open 11PM – 5AM.
• For cheaper sit-down sushi or take-out/delivery try either Sushiwest.fr (very good, fresh, somewhat more limited selection as it’s Kosher) or Sushishop.fr (smaller portions but better choice of side dishes). I prefer Sushiwest but you need a back-up as it’s Kosher and closed Friday and/or Saturday nights.
• Lao Tseu (7th) 209, Blvd St-Germain Paris, Tel.: 01 45 48 30 06. Small portions and pricey but good by French standards for Chinese food!
• Zen Garden (8th) 15, rue Marbeuf, Tel.: 01 53 23 82 82. A bit pricey but quite good food. The €19 or €27 lunch menus are a good deal. Open every day noon to midnight.
• Au Pied du Cochon (1st), 6, rue Coquillière, Tel.: 01 40 13 77 00. Serves food 24 hours. A bit of an institution.
• Le Pub St. Germain (6th), 17, rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, Tel.: 01 43 29 38 70. Serves food 24 hours. Good place to sit and have a drink, though it can be noisy. The food (mix of French, pub food, Italian, salads, sandwiches, etc.) is a bit hit or miss but can be quite good—go for the mushroom risotto if you’re inclined—probably the best food on the left bank after 11pm, but be prepared for horrible service. On the several occasions I have tried to order a burger without mayo or “special sauce” (i.e. mayo) it’s turned into a full-fledged argument.
• **Amorino is the best—real Italian gelato. In the 6th (rue de Buci or rue Guisarde by St. Sulpice)—the 5th (rue de la Huchette and rue Vavin), 3rd (rue Vieille du Temple), Ile-St-Louis (rue St. Louis) and a bunch of other locations as well….
• **Grom (6th) 81 rue de Seine. A new arrival, it rivals Amorino as the best gelato in town and has a few tables outside on rue de Seine for great people watching.
• Berthillon—the famous French ice cream. The original one is on Ile-St.-Louis but there are other places around that serve it. (I still prefer the two gelato places.)
• Carrefour: I go to the one on rue de Buci in the 6th, open 9AM to 12:30PM on Sundays.
• Market on Ave Raspail (6th, between rue Cherche Midi and Rue de Rennes)— Sunday (organic market, 8am-2:30/3pm or so).
• I am also a big fan of the markets on rue Cler (7th) (open Sunday mornings), rue Daguerre (14th) (most shops open every day) and the Marché d’Aligre (12th) (open every morning but Mondays).
• **Le Café Marly (1st) in the Louvre (Tel. 01 49 26 06 60, technically 93 Rivoli but it’s in the courtyard of the Louvre by the big glass pyramid). Great view of Louvre from terrace. Really a restaurant but you can grab a drink on the terrace during non-peak hours. I recommend going to catch sunset and then staying to see the lights come on around the Louvre.
**Le Gobelet d’Argent (1st) rue de la Petite Truanderie. In this quieter corner of Les Halles, this tiny laid-back bar is an ecclectic mix of near-haunted house and retro.
• Toro (1st) 74, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. A fun restaurant/bar with frequent live music and other events. Opens at 5PM on Sundays.
• Ritz Bars (1st)—for super pricey (28-30 euros/drink) but a real experience… the Ritz Bar and the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz (15, Place Vendome)
• Le magnifique (1st) 25, rue de Richelieu. Chic but chill lounge/bar. They also have great sushi.
• Le Fumoir (1st) 6, rue de l’Amiral-de-Coligny, Tel: 01 42 92 00 24 (lefumoir.com). See above under “Tea/Lunch”—open late for drinks and bar food on weekends.
• **Harry’s New York Bar (2nd) 5, Rue Daunou Tel. 01 42 61 71 14. Really two bars in one: upstairs it’s a traditional, tin-ceiling bar; downstairs a piano bar with red velvet seats. Definitely worth a visit.
• Candaleria (3rd) 52 rue de Saintonge, Tel. 03 42 74 41 28. This hole-in-the-wall Mexican joint with a trendy New York-style bar hidden through the back door was a wonderful spot until unfortunately it was discovered by the trend-seekers. It’s still worth a visit for the cheap tacos or a more expensive cocktail on the early side or on a week night.
• Le Lizard Lounge (4th), 18, rue du Bourg-Tibourg, Tel. 01 42 72 81 34. Relatively calm place in the Marais for drinks and they also have food (pub fare).
• **L’Hôtel (6th) 13 rue des Beaux-Arts. Tel.: 01 44 41 99 00. A quiet, relaxing atmosphere to grab a drink and sit and stay a while, beautiful décor, though pricey (€11 for a glass of wine).
• **Ralph Lauren (6th) 173 Boulevard St Germain, Tel. 01 44 77 76 00. The setting for food or just drinks is unbeatable, both inside and out. Sit back and relax on the large terrace or try the wood-paneled bar inside. If you’re lucky, they will give you some homemade caramel popcorn with your drinks. The only caveat–you need to arrive during non-meal times if you are just looking for a tea or glass of wine.
• Café les Editeurs (6th), 4, carrefour de l’Odéon, Tel : 01 43 26 67 76. Has food as well but especially nice for an afternoon/evening drink.
• Le Procope (6th) 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, Tel.: 01 40 46 79 00. Great for wine, tea, escargot. Opened in 1686 and was supposedly the first restaurant to serve coffee.
• Au Père Louis (6th), 38 Rue Monsieur la Prince. Good mix of people—not pretentious, old building with character, wine is not too expensive. They have a restaurant too but it’s usually pretty crowded.
• Le Bar du Marché (6th), 75 rue de Seine, Tel. 01 43 26 55 15. An excellent spot for a terrace and for people watching.
• La Palette (6th), 43 Rue de Seine. French brasserie atmosphere, good for low key sit-down drinks and the large terrace.
• Bouillon Racine (6th) 3, rue Racine, Tel. 01 44 32 15 60. Great décor/ambiance. Really a restaurant but it has a neat little bar that’s great for just grabbing one drink with a friend.
• Rue des Canettes (6th, by St. Sulpice)—plenty of options for wine bars, pubs, etc., though it’s a pretty young crowd: The Frog ’N Princess (9 rue Princesse), Temple Bar (12 rue Princesse), Café Six (19 rue des Canettes, corner or Guisarde).
• Au Sauvignon (7th), corner of rue des Saints-Pères and Rue des Sèvres. Well-known but not pretentious wine bar. Looks like a little brasserie but good selection of wines, brasserie-type food. Not open late but good for a late afternoon, early evening glass of wine.
• Bugsy’s (8th)—Irish pub, see above under “American/pubs”.
• Buddha Bar (8th), 8 Rue Boissy d’Anglais (Metro: Concorde), very chic and a bit pretentious, a bit pricey, but worth a trip for the décor (Tel. 01 53 05 90 00)
• Hôtel du Nord (10th) 102 quai de Jemmapes (along the Canal St. Martin) Tel.: 01 40 40 78 78. See above under “French”.
• Cafe Charbon (11th) 109 rue Oberkampf. Decent food, good for drinks early in the evening and dancing later in the evening.
• Barrio Latino (12th), 46 rue Faubourg Saint-Antoine, Tel: 01 55 78 84 75. Huge, impressive building with a mix of latin and other pop music. €20 euros cover includes one drink—best strategy is probably to go for dinner then stay to dance. Open 11am-2am daily.
• La Gare (16th), 19 chaussee Muette, Tel 01 42 15 15 31. Restaurant and bar, nice modern décor, great terrace out back.