The last weekend of November, some friends and I headed out to our house in the Morbihan, in Brittany, for our own little Thanksgiving celebration… and Christmas!
November brought amazingly beautiful weather this year in Brittany. We had several days with clear, blue skies. Maybe I am just becoming a true bretonne, but the days with some rain showers were the best days. Dark purple clouds would mix with white puffy clouds. It would often rain while remaining sunny. And as soon as the rain would stop, the skies presented us with the most magnificent rainbows and spectacular sunsets. I never knew November could be such a nice month out there.
We hiked during the day, including on Ile-aux-Moines and around the Locmariaquer peninsula. We ate our obligatory Brittany crêpes, shopped for food and anti-mud rubber boots. then settled in for a nice evening among friends in front of the fireplace. As we prepared our Thanksgiving dinner (mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, stuffing, gravy and a stuffed turkey breast from our talented local butcher, Claude Monnet – yes, that’s really his name!), we simultaneously decorated our Christmas tree.
In celebration of our American heritage and love for Brittany, we concocted our own dessert: far breton with cherry pie filling instead of the traditional prunes or raisins… delicious! It was a true mix of holidays and of cultures.
Portivy, Quiberon
We did still explore a few new restaurants in the area. See below for my updated list of favorite eateries in the Gulf of Morbihan area.
It was my third weekend in Brittany in November, but my last visit for a while, so I was quite sad to leave. A la prochaine, Bretagne!
Click here to see more Brittany in November photos.
***
Favorite Morbihan Restaurants
Auray
- La Licorne (Port de St Goustain, 15 place Saint Saveur 56400 Auray, Tel. 02 97 24 06 46). Delicious 3-course menus with local favorites and excellent seafood.
- Le Chasse-Marée (11 Place Saint-Sauveur 56400 Auray, Tel. 02 97 56 50 46. Open all year. The 3-course menus are an excellent value for this local cuisine with a gourmet twist.
Vannes
- Afghan Cafe (12 Rue de la Fontaine 56000 Vannes, Tel. 02 97 42 77 77). A very welcome change when you don’t want to see another crêpe as long as you live. Wonderful use of spices, very reasonable prices.
Baden/Port Blanc
- La Goélette in Baden serves up some of the best galettes and crêpes around, as well as wonderfully flavorful moules marinières (mussels).
- La Vigie (Embarcadere pour l’Ile aux Moines, 56870 Baden, Tel. 02 97 57 06 46, lavigie56@orange.fr). A bit more refined cuisine and more modern decor than some of the other local spots. Huge terrace/bar overlooking the port.
- Er Lannic (Port Blanc Embarcadère Ile aux Moines, 56870 Baden, Tél. : 02 97 57 07 07, closed mid-November through February). A cozy room in a stone house with large fireplaces. Osters, crêpes, pizza.
Ile-aux-Moines
- Chez Charlemagne (Le Lério – Port 56780, Ile aux Moines, Tél: 02 97 26 32 43) Open every day but Monday 12h to 14h and 19h30 to 21h30 (April through mid-November). A cozy pub with traditional but eclectic decor.
- Restaurant Asphodèle (rue de Presbytère 56780 Ile aux Moines, Tel. 02 97 26 32 52/06 34 29 40 46). Charming salon de thé and lunch roomin an old stone guest house – sit on the lovely etrrace or in the cozy indoors.
Larmor-Baden
- If you are looking for oysters, a stop in Larmor-Baden is a must. The Crénéguy family owns a small shop right by the port that sells oysters and several other shellfish and offers tastings. For less than €10, taste a plate of six of the freshest and plumpest oysters you will ever try (see photo above), plus bread & butter and a glass of white wine. The shop is open from 9h30 to 13h30 and from 16h to 19h30 every day and is located on rue de Pen Lannic. Call 02.97.58.04.76 to reserve or order in advance.
Le Bono
- Les Alizés (46 rue Pasteur, 56400 Le Bono, Tel. 02 97 57 97 80). A good choice for oysters and a variety of other local dishes.
Locmariaquer
- Crêperie Les Iles (8, place Dariorigum, Locmariaquer, Tel. 02 97 57 35 79). Delicious crêpes by the port.
- L’Escale (place Dariorigu, Tel. 02 97 57 32 51, escale.locmariaquer@yahoo.fr, open from April to the end of September) One of my favorites, for the food and location. Possibly the best oysters ever. Beautiful waterside wooden terrace.
La Trinité Sur Mer
- Le Bistrot du Marin A spacious restaurant, with a large terrace and view of the port. The service is quite friendly and the seafood risotto is absolutely delicious. Be sure to also stop by L’Epicerie du Port, just a few doors down from the bistro at 24 Cours Quais for gourmet and international food products at reasonable prices, including a wide variety of olive oils.
Carnac
- La Brigantine in Carnac: seafood is of course their specialty, but everything we ate was delicately and perfectly prepared. Extremely friendly owners and delightful decor. Best to reserve in advance, especially for dinner.
Quiberon
- Le Bateau Ivre (9 place de Saint Ivy, Portivy, 56510 St Pierre Quiberon, Tel. 02 97 30 93 23) An old stand-by for crêpes or seafood after a hike along the Côte Sauvage in Quiberon.
