The Full List

This is my full list of restaurant and bar recommendations, along with a few bakeries, ice cream parlors and markets. Please note that this list has not been fully updated since the start of Covid. Please let me know if you discover that some of these venues are no longer operating. Thank you!

The suggestions are listed by cuisine, and within each cuisine, in order of arrondissement. They are not necessarily the fanciest restaurants or the trendiest and they may be a bit geographically skewed towards the neighborhoods I tend to visit most often. They may not be the critics’ picks, but they are my favorites. I have indicated “**” for some of my real favorites!

Please be sure to call ahead as hours may have changed and you’re best off with reservations at almost all of these establishments.

A note on price: I find that most decent restaurants will run about €40-€50 per person for a full 3-course dinner with 2-3 people sharing a bottle of wine. If I note that a restaurant is “pricey” it means you’re closer to the €60-€70 per person range. None of the restaurants listed below are going to cost much more than that, unless you just keep ordering…

French:

**Verjus (1st) 47 rue Montpensier (wine bar)/52 rue de Richelieu, Tel. 01 42 97 54 40, verjusparis@gmail.com. Wine bar: Mon – Fri, 18h – 23h, Restaurant: Mon – Fri, 19h – 22h. Adorable wine bar with a stone-vaulted ceiling and tasty small plates for under €10. But if you’re looking for one splurge in Paris, the restaurant upstairs should be it. 5-course set menu at €60 but do not miss the spot on wine pairings for €40 additional. It’s worth it. Very friendly and inviting, run by Laura and Braden of Hidden Kitchen fame. An evening at Verjus is not just a dinner, it’s an experience.
**Au Vieux Comptoir (1st) 17 rue des Lavandieres, Sainte Opportune, Tel. 01 45 08 53 08. Tripadvisor rates it in the top 10 out of 6,000+ restaurants in Paris and I know why! Excellent food & wine and wide and reasonably-priced selection of both, extremely friendly owner, authentic French bistro ambience. Don’t miss the burrata with truffles (aux truffes) if it’s in season. The salmon tartare and filet of beef with truffle mashed potatoes are also not to be missed. Open 10h00-0h00 Tues-Sat. Reserve ahead.
**Kong (1st) 1, rue du Pont-Neuf (5th floor of the Kenzo store) Tel. 01 40 39 09 00. French/Asian fusion. Pricey (€15-20 for appetizers, €25-35 for mains) but delicious food and a great view looking out through the glass roof.
La Robe et le Palais (1st) 17 rue des Lavandieres, Sainte Opportune, Tel. 01 45 08 07 41. Very friendly service, huge wine list, good traditional French food, cozy bistrot feel. Open every day but Sunday 12h00-14h30 and 19h30-23h00.
Le Café Marly (1st) in the Louvre (Tel. 01 49 26 06 60, technically 93 Rivoli but it’s in the courtyard of the Louvre by the big glass pyramid). It’s a Costes brothers restaurant, which means the food can be a bit hit or miss but I’m a big fan of the shrimp or scallops dishes. A bit pricey and not always the friendliest service but despite all this it’s worth it for the location: great view of Louvre from terrace. Good for tea or drinks too (especially if you hit it at sunset), open late.
L’Ardoise (1st) 28, rue du Mont-Thabor, Tel: 01 42 96 28 18. The food is traditional but not too heavy, €33 3-course menu with at least 10 options for each course. The service can be slow. It’s better for dinner as lunch is pricey—still €33.
Le Fumoir, (1st) 6, rue de l’Amiral-de-Coligny, Tel: 01 42 92 00 24. Good for lunch, dinner or just drinks. Great lounge/old library feel. Best to reserve ahead unless you’re just going late for drinks. Open 11h00-2h00 daily.
La Cordonnerie (1st) 20, rue St.-Roch (at rue Saint-Honoré), Tel. 01 42 60 17 42. Last I looked rated 5th (out of 6,000+) on tripadvisor. Small, very old and cozy building, very good food if you’re looking for something fairly traditional and meat-oriented, very friendly service.
Willie’s Wine Bar (1st) 13, Rue Petits Champs, Tel: 0142610509. Restaurant has a varied menu and an enormous wine list. You can also just grab drinks or some munchies at the bar.
Spring (1st) 6 Rue Bailleul, Tel. 01 45 96 05 72. I hesitated whether to include Spring or not. It’s one of the “must go to” restaurants this year and I find that trendy places in Paris are often overrated. My dinner was wonderful, but for the same high price tag (€65 for the fixed-price set menu) my vegetarian friend was served a cheese plate. So if you are looking for a splurge and you will eat anything, go, but otherwise, skip it.
A Casaluna (1st) 6 Rue de Beaujolais, Tel. 01 42 60 05 11. Along the northern side of the Palais Royal, this Corsican restaurant combines fine dining and an excellent wine selection with friendly service and the chance to try a regional cuisine that is not so easy to find in Paris.
L’absinthe (1st) 24, Place Marché St Honoré, Tel. 01 49 26 90 04. Located in the lively Place Marché St Honoré, this restaurant offers friendly service and a mix of traditional and modern cuisine in a traditional setting. Outdoor seating also available.
Reflets de Scène (1st) 22 Rue de Beaujolais, Tel. 01 42 97 51 57. Wonderful location just steps from the Jardin du Palais Royal, friendly and efficient service (they are used to pre-theater diners). A good selection of traditional French and more modern, innovative cuisine. Open every day (but closed Monday dinner and Saturday lunch).
BioBoa Cafe (2nd) 93, rue Montmartre, Tel. 01 40 28 02 83, contact@bioboa.fr. This organic food café offers a mix of lighter fare and heartier plates. A good spot for a long weekend brunch.
Frenchie (2nd) 5-6, rue du Nil, Tel. 01 40 39 96 19, Mon–Fri 19h-22h30. Frenchie is one of the latest “in” places in Paris and it’s well deserving of all the acclaim. In an adorable and cozy setting, the prices are lower than you might expect. It’s not easy to get a reservation – you must call to reserve between 15h and 17h Mon-Fri. The wine bar across the street is a good alternative, however, if you want lighter and cheaper fare or just a drink.
Le Grand Colbert (2nd) 2, rue Vivienne, Tel: 01 42 86 87 88. A bit pricey, but huge selection, excellent seafood and great brasserie décor—where the last scene in “Something’s Gotta Give” was filmed.
Bistrot Volnay (2nd) 8, rue Volnay, Tel: 01 42 61 06 65. Rather gourmet 3-course menu for €36 and substantial wine list. It’s a good pick if you’re looking for something fancier without breaking the budget.
Chez Janou (3rd) (2, rue Roger-Verlomme Tel. 01 42 72 28 41) Very popular among the tourists. I hesitated to keep it on the list as it’s crowded and a bit of a scene, but the food is predictably good and it can be a fun atmosphere; my guests from out of town often ask if we can go there.
Le Petit Marché (3rd) 9, Rue Béarn, Tel. 01 42 72 06 67. Open daily 12h-15h and 20h-midnight. This bistro is less touristy and more authentic than its popular sister establishment, Chez Janou, but the food is just as good if not better and the location, just a block north of Place des Vosges, is just as atmospheric.
**Pamela Popo (4th) 15 Rue François Miron, Tel.: 01 42 74 14 65. Open Mon – Thurs 12h–23h, Fri 12h–23h30, Sat 13h–23h30, Sun 13h–23h. Small bar downstairs (open every day 18h – 2h) and restaurant upstairs. Mix of cozy, traditional and a touch of modern. Friendly service, delicious food. The mushroom ravioli with French toast was especially good. Possibly the best café crème I have had in Paris.
Restaurant Georges (4th) on the 6th floor of the Pompidou Center (Tel. 01 44 78 47 99)—modern French, great views of the city. A bit pricey, quite trendy (certainly not your typical cozy French bistro) but the food tends to be a bit less hit or miss than at some of the Costes brothers restaurants; a good pick for a special occasion. Open every day but Tuesday.
Cru (4th) 7, rue Charlemagne, Tel. 01 40 27 81 84. Featuring mostly (though not entirely) raw meats and fish, this restaurant is not for everyone. But if you’re intrigued, the food is quite good (I recommend the duck ravioli which is actually not raw) and the setting is quite inviting.
Le Coude Fou (4th), 12 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (right near Hotel de Ville metro), Tel. 01 42 77 15 16. Small, unassuming place with traditional fare.
Mon Vieil Ami (4th on Ile St-Louis), 69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Tel. 01 40 46 01 35. Great setting, the food is a bit traditional for my tastes, but recommended if you are looking for more traditional southwestern French cooking with a bit of innovation.
**ChantAirelle (5th) 17, rue Laplace, Tel 01 46 33 18 59. Cute little place with a great terrace (reserve the terrace in advance!) Traditional cuisine from the Auvergne, sumptuous desserts, large assortment of wines and liquers from the Auvergne.
**Chez Lena et Mimile (5th) 32 Rue Tournefort, Tél: 01 47 07 72 47. Open every day 12h to 14h30 & 19h to 23h. Huge terrasse, great setting in a quiet part of the Latin Quarter but near rue Mouffetard. Mix of Spanish, French and Italian cuisine. The inside is cozy for winter. The linguine with shellfish sauce was especially good. A big hit with all my friends.
Le Balzar (5th) 49 rue des Ecoles, Tel. 01 43 54 13 67, Open every day 8h – 23h45.You may have noticed that I am not a huge fan of brasserie food, but this is one exception where the food is of a high quality (although the price is farily high as well) and you do have to try a brasserie at least once during your visit to Paris.
Le Petit Prince (5th) 12, rue de Lanneau, Tel. 01 43 54 77 26. Cute restaurant in a very old building, the food is solid, set menus that aren’t too pricey.
Le Coupe-Chou (5th) 9-11, rue de Lanneau, Tel. 01 46 33 68 69. The food is pricey for being relatively mediocre but the building is amazing—from the 13th century.
**La Ferrandaise (6th) 8, Rue Vaugirard, Tel. 01 43 26 36 36, laferrandaise@wanadoo.fr. Traditional Auvergne cuisine, excellent presentation, €32 3-course menu. One of the best French restaurants I have been to in Paris.
**Café Pères et Filles (6th) 8, rue de Seine, Tel. 01 43 25 00 28. Traditional French cuisine that is not too heavy. It’s becoming one of my favorite summer spots for the large outdoor seating area.
**Bouillon Racine (6th) 3, rue Racine, Tel. 01 44 32 15 60. The colorful, early 20th century art nouveau décor makes it one of the most memorable brasseries I have been too. Traditional French food but also great salads, soups. Neat little bar. One of my favorites.
**Eggs & Co. (formerly Coco & Co.) (6th) 11 rue Bernard Palissy. Tiny little place in a very old building. They specialize in egg dishes—best omelets ever. Good for brunch/lunch but reserve ahead. It’s closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
**La Crèmerie (6th) 9 rue des Quatre Vents, Tel. 01 43 54 99 30. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10:30am-3pm and 5 pm-10 pm (get there by 8:30pm!). Tiny place, need to reserve. Very friendly owner. Great selection of wine, very cozy old wine bar atmosphere, mostly appetizers to share. My mouth is watering just thinking about the burrata (tied with Au Vieux Comptoir for the best burrata in Paris in my book) and chocolate cake (which I most recently found out is only available on Fridays and Saturdays).
**Fish La Boissonnerie (6th) 69, rue de Seine, Tel. 01 43 54 34 69. Cute little restaurant with good seafood, but some meat on the menu as well. Set price meals €31.50 for app+main or main+dessert, €36.50 for app+main+dessert. Good wine list and great foccaccia bread. Reservations necessary.
La Brasserie Fernand (6th) 13, Rue Guisarde—a very solid traditional French restaurant, cozy, not too expensive.
Le Timbre (6th) 3 rue Sainte Beuve, Tel. 01 45 49 10 40. Tiny little place with gourmet food (albeit small portions) and very friendly service. Entrées €8-10, mains €17-20, desserts €7.
Comme à Savonnières (6th) 18, rue de Guisarde, Tel. 01 43 29 52 18. Closed Sunday. Good, mix of traditional and more modern French food.
Germain (6th), 25-27 rue de Buci, Tel. 01 43 26 02 93. The newest Costes restaurant. Appealing menu (especially the scallops if they are in season) for more New York style food. Trendy, a bit pricey, the music’s too loud later at night. Best to go on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon (open “non-stop”).
Le Christine (6th), 1 rue Christine, Tel. 01 40 51 71 64. Traditional French food, cute atmosphere.
Petula Cafe, (6th) 6 Rue Ciseaux, Tel. 0153108719. Traditional French food but some Italian as well, excellent desserts.
Café Louise (6th) 155 Blvd Saint Germain, Tel. 01 42 22 88 98, info@cafelouise.fr. Open Sun – Wed 7h – 2h, Thurs – Sat 7h – 5h. This new venue embraces a mixed-use concept, offering breakfast, lunch and dinner and a buffet brunch on Sundays, as well as live music in the evenings. During the day, it’s a bright, inviting, traditional atmosphere but it turns lively late night.
Restaurant Semilla (6th) 54 rue de Seine, Tel. 01 43 54 34 50. This new addition to Saint-Germain combines traditional and innovative food in a setting that also combines traditional and modern-industrial design. Dishes are categorized not based on courses but based on preparation styles. Ingredients are incredibly fresh and service very friendly. Open every day.
Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots, Brasserie Lipp (6th)—these are the three famous ones on St. Germain. Perhaps worth going for the experience, though I think the food is quite overrated. If you want to try one, pick the Deux Magots. Drinks (even non-alcoholic) at all of them are very pricey.
**Le Cinq Mars (7th) 51,rue de Verneuil, Tel. 01 45 44 69 13. Between cozy and trendy and excellent food and wine list.
**Les Truffes Folies (7th) 37 Rue Malar, Tel. 01 44 18 05 41, email: contact@truffesfolies.com. A must for truffle lovers. Small, cozy place (reservations needed) where almost everything on the menu has truffles and you can purchase truffle products to bring home as well. The crème brulée with truffles sounds odd but it’s a must.
La Maison de l’Amerique Latine (7th) 217, bd St-Germain, Tel. 01 49 54 75 10, Mon – Fri only. The food is good but the setting in magnificent. Be sure to pick a warm summer evening and sit on the outdoor terrace. Don’t leave without taking a spin around the garden first.
Le Vin (20) de Bellechasse (7th)—see under “American/pubs”.
Aux Fins Gourmets (7th) 213 Boulevard St.-Germain, Tel. 01 42 22 06 57. Traditional southwestern French, bistro food. Excellent scallops.
Le Bamboche (7th) 15 rue de Babylone, Tel. 01 45 49 14 40. Cute place by the Bon Marché with great gourmet food and a very friendly (very pro-USA) owner. The €32 menu is a great value, though à la carte is expensive, as is the wine.
Au Bon Accueil (7th) 14, rue de Monttessuy, Tel: 01 47 05 46 11. Traditional, gourmet French but a great value for the money—€31 menu (app+main+dessert). Small and fancy dining room, very friendly service, just steps from the Eiffel Tower.
L’Evasion (8th) 7, Place Saint-Augustin, Tel: 01 45 22 66 20. Old bistro with traditional southwestern French cooking, very fresh ingredients, a bit pricey.
Market (8th), 15 ave Matignon. Tel.: 01 56 43 40 90. A Jean Georges restaurant: modern but cozy ambience, fine food though pricey.
Le Boudoir Brasserie (8th) 25, rue du Colisée, Tel. 01 43 59 25 29, www.brasserieleboudoir.com, brasserieleboudoir@orange.fr. Cute location, friendly service, solid food.
**Le Béguin (9th), 2 Rue du Cardinal Mercier, Tel. 01 42 81 58 20. Le Béguin is one of my new favorite restaurants in Paris. The burrata is amazing and only €8 for one person or €10.50 for a portion serving two people. All ingredients are farm-fresh. Excellent soups and salads, inviting 1950s diner-meets-bistro ecclectic decor, very friendly service. Open Mon – Fri 9:30am – 2:00am and Sat 10:00am – 2:00am, closed Sundays.
Vivant (9th) 43 rue des Petites Ecuries, Closed Saturday & Sunday, Tel. 01 42 46 43 55. A small and cozy bistro in a traditional setting. It’s been hyped up a lot in the press and I don’t think it is deserving of quite so much praise, but it is still an excellent choice for fresh, high quality home-cooking in a traditional setting and a good value for your money if you skip the less-than-tasty organic wines.
Café de la Paix (9th) Place de l’Opera, Tel. 01 40 07 36 36. The restaurant is quite pricey but you can have a sandwich or salad in the brasserie with the same ornate décor (still €10-12 for a glass of wine though).
L’Office (9th) 3, rue Richer, Tel: 01 47 70 67 31. Small restaurant with very friendly service. Menu has small selection (3 appetizers, 2 mains) but changes daily and the food is very good, fresh, nice presentation.
Hotel Amour (9th), 8 rue Navarin, Tel.: 01 48 78 31 80. Cute place for brunch or dinner, with a fantastic greenhouse/patio in warmer weather. Open Sundays.
Hôtel du Nord (10th) 102 quai de Jemmapes (along the Canal St. Martin) Tel.: 01 40 40 78 78. Trendy, attractive restaurant with good food. There’s a bar and a terrace along the canal in the summer.
Au Passage (11th) 1 bis passage Saint Sébastien, Tel. 01 43 55 07 52. This is a French bistro meets 1950s lounge, serving delicious small plates: try the bonite et aubergines fumées (raw tuna with smoked eggplant and a cream sauce), tomates à l’ancienne (fresh tomatoes with a white cheese), encornet à l’encre (whole squid in its ink)).
L’Echappée (11th) 64, rue de la Folie Mericourt. Tel. 01 58 30 12 50. It’s actually a spa but has a cute little restaurant for lunch, light dinner or Saturday/Sunday brunch. Need to reserve in advance.
**L’Huitrier (17th) 16, rue Saussier Leroy, off Marché Poncelet, Tel.: 01 40 54 83 44. Great for oysters, fresh seafood in general. Friendly service. I’m a big fan of the shrimp grilled in garlic sauce and the tuna tartare. For some reason, they have the best ice cream in the world—from a small shop in the 17th called Mr. Ice. Not cheap but a good deal for seafood.
**Le Gourmet des Ternes (17th) 87, boulevard de Courcelles (Metro Ternes), Tel.: 01 42 27 43 04. The best steak I’ve had in Paris (order the “spécial ‘pièce de boeuf’”). The meat is pricey (€32 for the spécial) and you have to order sides separately (will easily come to €50 per person with wine) and the waiter might yell at you in that authentic Parisian sort of way, but it’s worth it if you’re in the mood for steak. The baba rhum for dessert is an experience. Go with a few people if you can so you can share a bunch of sides.
**Caïus (17th), 6, rue d’Armaillé. Tel. 01 42 27 19 20. Closed weekends (open Mon-Fri 12-2pm and 7:30 to 10pm). Excellent 3-course lunches and dinners for €42. I especially enjoyed their seafood selections.
Le Hide (17th) 10 rue Du General Larrezac, Tel. 01 45 74 15 81. One of the only good affordable French restaurants near Etoile, this bistro offers excellent gourmet 3-course menus for €29.
MBC (17th) 4, rue du Débarcadère, Tel. 01 45 72 22 55. Gilles Choukroun’s restaurant offers €39 euro 5-course set menus for lunch or dinner that make gourmet dining accessible to everyone if you are willing to eat anything. But do not expect traditional French decor: it is eccelectic, with graffitied walls and flashy accent pieces.
Frederic Simonin Restaurant (17th) 25 rue Bayen, Tel.: 01 45 74 74 74. It’s not a cheap place, but the €38 3-course plus amuses bouches gourmet lunch menu is exceptional if you are in the mood for a splurge.
Le Relais de la Butte (18th), 12, rue Ravignan, Tel. 01 42 23 24 34. It’s hard to find a decent restaurant in Montmartre but this restaurant is just slightly off the main tourist route and the food is of good quality and service is friendly.
Rosa Bonheur (19th) 2, allée de la Cascade in Buttes Chaumont Park, nearest Bozartis metro (access through gates opposite 74 rue de Botzaris), Tel. 01 42 00 00 45, info@rosabonheur.fr. Open Wed to Sun, 12 noon to midnight. Bar, dancing, tapas, though a more formal restaurant in the winter—changes based on the season. Great for summer evening drinks & tapas but get there early (6:00pm) to avoid the long line to get in!
Mama Shelter (20th), 109 rue Bagnolet (closet metro is Gambetta or Alexandre Dumas). A very modern space with individual tables for dining, family-style dining tables and several bars. New French cuisine. Worth the trek if you are looking for something different, relaxed, and have the time to take advantage of the space.
**Restaurant l’Ile (Issy-Les-Moulineaux), 170 Quai de Stalingrad, Tel. 01 41 09 99 99. In the heart of the Parc Ile St. Germain, it’s not the easiest place to get to without a car (your best bet is the RER C to Issy Val de Seine (about 20 min from St Michel) then a 15 min walk or taxi) but well worth the trip, especially on a nice day when you can enjoy a walk around the park before or after. Beautiful setting with huge glassed-in and outdoor terraces. Large menu that’s cheaper than you might expect for a place that’s rather fancy like this.

Steak:

**Au Vieux Comptoir (1st)—see above under “French”.
Anahi (3rd) 49 Rue Volta, Tel. 01 48 87 88 24. The steak at this small Argentine restaurant is some of the best I’ve had in Paris and the space is intimate and inviting. The service is very friendly. Unfortunately it’s pricey (€60 or so per person) but worth a trip for a special occasion. Open every day from 8PM to 2AM.
**Le Gourmet des Ternes (17th)—see above under “French”. Best steak in town.
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte (6th), 20, rue Saint-Benoît (just north of Blvd St. Germain), Tel. 01 45 49 16 00. Not as good as Gourmet des Ternes but it’s solid, a well-known institution. They have other locations as well.

Tea/French (lunch/brunch):

Le Fumoir (1st) —see above under “French”.
**A Priori Thé (2nd) 35 Galerie Vivienne (off rue des Petits-Champs), Tel. 01 42 97 48 75. Innovative and tasty brunch—à la carte for €14-€16 euros but it’s worth it to get the full €30 brunch on Sundays and don’t miss the real American cheesecake. When you reserve, ask for a seat in the (covered) courtyard.
The Pompidou Center (3rd) has a café that is great for people-watching if you are visiting the exhibits and are looking for a bite to eat. You do not need a ticket to the museum to get to the café.
Marché des Enfants Rouges (3rd), 39 rue de Bretagne. Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: 8:30-1PM and 4PM-7: 30PM. Friday, Saturday- 8h30AM-1PM and 4PM-8PM. Sunday: 8:30AM–2PM The oldest food market in Paris (1615). It’s a normal market but also has some great lunch spots (mostly outdoor seating) for a variety of cuisines (Japanese, Carribean, Italian, Middle Eastern, etc.)
**Sugarplum Cake Shop (5th), 68 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Tel. 01 46 34 07 43. An inviting space for a cup of tea and good old American baked goods. The carrot cake is delicious. They often hold special events such as book signings. And if you are in the market for a personalized cake for a special event, this is the place to come.
**Cosi (6th) 54, rue de Seine, Tel: 01 46 33 35 36. Best sandwiches ever (on focaccia bread) and great salads too. I go here way too often, it’s embarrassing. The Cosi chain in the U.S. is supposedly a knock-off of this one. Good for take-out (picnics on the Pont des Arts!) but they do have tables upstairs. Open 7 days/week 12 noon until 11PM.
**La Cuisine de Bar/Poilâne Paris – Cherche-Midi bakery (6th) 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, Tel 01 45 48 42 59 Opening hours: From Monday to Saturday, 7:15 am to 8:15 pm—famous bakery, also a great shop next door for lunch, though it gets crowded. They have a great lunch special—just €12.50 for a tartine, small salad, glass of wine or mineral water and coffee & cookie.
**Eggs & Co. (formerly Coco & Co.) (6th) on Bernard Palissy (see above under “French”).
**Bread & Roses (6th) 7 rue de Fleurus, Tel. 01 42 22 06 06. Bakery for take-out or to eat there. Pricey but excellent (especially the quiches and tartes feuilletés).
**Mariages Frères (6th), 13 Rue des Grands Augustins, Metro St-Michel, phone: 014-051-8250. A bit pricey, but an institution. Famous for the 100s of varieties of tea; the snob salad and tea-infused desserts are great. Other locations as well (Marais—4th, Faubourg Saint-Honoré—8th).
**Ladurée (6th), 21 Rue Bonaparte (for the famous French macaroons and other sweets). I prefer it for lunch. The mains are pricey but they have great salads and reasonably priced club sandwiches. Other locations as well (place Madeleine, Champs-Elysées—the Champs-Elysées location is my favorite).
L’Heure Gourmande (6th) 22, passage Dauphine, Tel. 01 46 34 00 40. Hours: Mon. to Sun. 12 p.m. to 7 p.m. Cozy interior and nice, quiet terrace, great for tea or hot chocolate.
Café Louise (6th) 155 Blvd Saint Germain, Tel. 01 42 22 88 98, info@cafelouise.fr. Open Sun – Wed 7h – 2h, Thurs – Sat 7h – 5h. See above under “French”.
The Musée d’Orsay (7th) has a classy café if you are visiting the museum and get hungry. You do need a ticket to the museum to access the café.
Café at the Petit Palais (8th), Avenue Winston Churchill, Tel. 01 53 43 40 00. The food is a bit pricey and not the best selection, but if you are going to the Petit Palais anyways for an exhibition, it’s worth it to stop off for a glass of wine/coffee at the café—it’s one of the nicest terraces in Paris.
Musée Jacquemart-André (8th) 158 bd Haussmann, Tel. 01 45 62 11 59, Mon-Sun 11h45-17h30. The magnificent dining room with a beautiful terrace for outdoor dining would make this restaurant worthwhile, but the food is also surprisingly good. They offer just one hot meal and one quiche option each day but also about 10 different salads (including quinoa and pasta salads) that are innovative and flavorful. The desert cart is also impressive. Special brunch menu on weekends. They do not take reservations.
Le Valentin (9th), 32, Passage Jouffroy, Tel. 01 47 70 88 50. A fantastic bakery for sweets, quiches, etc. with a sit-down area for quiches, coffee and a lunch menu, etc. Passage Jouffroy and the connecting Passage des Panoramas (old shopping arcades) are well worth a visit even if you don’t stop to eat.
Hotel Amour (9th), 8 rue Navarin, Tel.: 01 48 78 31 80. A great pick for Sunday brunch. (See above under “French”).

Spanish:

Chez Lena et Mimile (5th)—see above under “French”.
Fogón (6th) 45, quai des Grands-Augustins, Tel. 01 43 54 31 33. Very good paella and fancier tapas. Great selection of paellas, though not the best selection of tapas.
Cafe Tolo (Basque) (11th), 3 Rue Eugène Varlin, Tel. 01 42 05 22 51. This little restaurant just off the Canal Saint Martin with its ecclectic furnishings serves flavorful Basque cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Excellent wine as well.

Italian:

**Olio Pane Vino (1st) 44, rue Coquillière, Tel: 01 42 85 27 33, Mon–Sat, lunch; dinner on Thurs and Fri only. This cozy and friendly spot has a small selection but everything is fresh and prepared to perfection. Surprisingly good value for your money.
O’Scia (2nd) 44 Rue Tiquetonne, Tel. 01 75 77 23 18. Some of the best pizza in Paris in a cozy, old building in the Montorgueil pedestrian zone. I ordered the O’Scia Pizza (tomato, mozzarella and eggplant) and would go back and order the same thing again next time!
La Scala (2nd) 11 Blvd de Bonne Nouvelle, Tel. 01 42 36 01 30. The pizzas are quite good but the desserts are exceptional. Friendly owners make it clear that once you step inside, “You are no longer in France. You are in Italy.”
Al Taglio (3rd) 27, rue Saintonge, Tel: 09 50 48 84 06. A wide variety of creative pizzas, pay by the weight. Open daily, Noon-11pm, and other locations.
Restaurant La Briciola (3rd) 64, rue Charlot, Tel. 01 42 77 34 10. Very friendly and lively restaurant specializing in pizza, though they do have some other dishes too.
Pink Flamingo Pizza (3rd) 105 Rue Vieille du Temple (and other locations), Tel. 01 42 71 28 20. Innovative pizzas as well as the old classics. Eat in the small and trendy restaurant or take away.
**L’Alimentari (4th) 6 rue des Ecouffes, 75004, Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday, Tel. 01 42 77 24 59. Cozy atmosphere under centuries-old exposed beams. Fresh and authentic Italian food. The burrata and linguine alle vongole (clams) were especially delicious.
Quartino (4th) 19-20, rue Rambuteau 75004 Paris, Tel. 01 44 78 10 24. Deliciously fresh pizza
by the slice (pay by weight). Open every day 11h – 22h.
Assaggio (4th) 48 rue du Temple. A newer Italian option specializing in pizza by the slice with numerous choices for toppings.
Le Curieux Spaghetti + Bar (4th), 14 rue Saint Merri, Tel. 01 42 72 75 97. They have an odd mix of food—good spaghetti (though not as good as in a real Italian restaurant) with a variety of toppings, big portions. They also have hamburgers, salads, some Asian-style food, cocktails. A good pre-going out or late-night food stop as it turns into a bar later on. Open Sunday to Wednesday 12pm-2am and Thurs to Saturday 12pm to 4am.
**Chez Lena et Mimile (5th)—see above under “French”.
**La Bocca della Verità (6th) 2, Rue du Sabot, Tel. 01 45 48 96 65. Very friendly, classy but still cozy décor, perfectly cooked pasta, new inventive truffle menu.
**Au club des Siciliens (6th) 18 rue du Dragon, Tel. 01 42 84 16 08. My other go-to place for Sundays and late dinners. Oreo tiramisu…need I say more?
**Santa Lucia (6th) 22 rue des Canettes, Tel.: +33 1 43 26 42 68. Not as quiet as some of the other Italian restaurants in the area but it may be slightly cheaper as well. The antipasti and pizzas are great and if they have the truffle pasta in a parmesan cheese bowl special, don’t pass it up. Open on Sundays.
L’Altro (6th) (6 rue du Dragon), Tel. 01 45 48 49 49. A classy looking place with an open kitchen. I especially like the calamari salad.
La Locanda (6th) 8 rue du Dragon, Tel. 01 45 44 12 53. My go-to place on Sundays as it’s open for lunch & dinner. Very friendly owner. I’m a fan of the penne à la vodka.
Le Cherche Midi (6th), 22 rue du Cherche Midi, tel. 08 99 69 00 06. Small, bistro-feel. Everything is very fresh..
Pizza Vesuvio (6th) 1, rue Gozlin, Tel: 01 43 54 94 78. The pizza is good, the other food isn’t as good as at the other restaurants, but you can get a small pizza to go for €3. They also have decent salads to go.
**Il Sorrentino (7th) 4 rue de Monttessuy, Tel.: 01 45 55 12 50. Great penne all’arrabbiata (which I always get with a Nero d’Avola wine) and pizza with truffle oil. Famous for the pastas with cognac/grappa and foie gras prepared in a bowl of parmesan cheese (at least one person in your party must order this!) But save room for the tiramisu and zabaglione desserts.
Restaurant Le Perron (7th) 6, rue Perronet, Tel.: 01 45 44 71 51, roberto@restaurantleperron.fr. Authentic and very fresh Italian fare in an intimate setting. On the expensive side but a good choice for a quiet evening out with excellent food.
Al Dente (7th), 38 rue de Varenne (just west of rue du Bac), Tel. 08 99 69 07 76. Cute and quiet little place with a good selection of pastas and more.
Findi (8th), 24, avenue George V – Paris 75008, Tel.: 01 47 20 14 78, Metro George V. A bit fancy and expensive compared to some of the others but the food is excellent.
Vinoteca (8th) 32, rue de Courcelles, Tel. 01 53 96 07 68. Pricey but quite good.
Bocconi (8th), 10 bis rue d’Artois. Also pricey but very fresh ingredients.
Visconti (8th) 89 Boulevard de Courcelles, Tel. 01 43 80 78 22, http://www.restaurantitalien.fr/. Visconti does not look like anything special from the outside but it’s some of the best pizza and pasta in the Etoile/Ternes area and one of the few restaurants that don’t give you a hard time if you bring a stroller!
La Pizzetta (9th), 22 avenue Trudaine, Tel. 01 48 78 14 08, www.lapizzeta.fr. Perhaps the best pizza I’ve had in Paris (try the one with roquette, tomato and mozzarella di bufala!)
Pizzeria Da Carmine (9th) 61, rue des Martyrs, Tel. 01 48 78 28 01. Despite its poor ratings on TripAdvisor, the pizza is some of the best in Paris. The ambience is nothing to write home about; they run a take-out business as well.
**Sassotondo (11th) 40, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Tel. 01 43 55 57 00. Open for dinner only, closed Tuesday & Wednesday. Authentic and hearty but not heavy Tuscan fare in this cozy, modern bistro. Friendly service, all Italians. The €34 four-course fixed-price menu is an exceptional value.
Delitaly (17th) 23, Rue Poncelet, Tel: 01 48 88 00 72. Excellent pasta and wine. I like their penne del inferno (all’arrabbiata) and the tagliatelle with mushrooms and truffle sauce. The burrata is quite good. They also have a small food/traiteur shop a few doors down.
La Fabbrica (17th), 19 rue Etoile, Tel. 0 1 55 37 90 00. Excellent pasta, but my favorite dish is their insalata italiana (antipasti).

Mexican:

Candelaria (3rd) 52 rue de Saintonge, Tel. 03 42 74 41 28. This hole-in-the-wall Mexican joint with a trendy New York-style bar hidden through the back door was a wonderful spot until unfortunately it was discovered by the trend-seekers. It’s still worth a visit for the cheap tacos or a more expensive cocktail earlier in the week.
**Anahuacalli (5th), 30 rue des Bernadins, Tel. 01 43 26 10 20 (just north of Blvd St Germain, Metro Maubert), open for dinner every day and lunch only on Sundays—one of my favorite Mexican restaurants anywhere, not just in Paris! (My parents both insist on a visit to Anahuacalli whenever they are in town from the U.S.) Authentic cuisine (I’m a fan of the tú y yo appetizer plate, the enchiladas verdes and the mole), great margaritas, very friendly service.

Thai:

**Baan-Boran (1st) 43, rue de Montpensier, Tel. 01 40 15 90 45. Slightly more expensive than some of the other Thai options, it may be the best Thai restaurant in Paris. Rue Montpensier is also a great place to go to dinner, with wine bars such as Verjus and Willy’s Wine Bar nearby for after-dinner drinks.
**Suan Thai (4th), 35 rue du Temple (recently moved from 41 rue Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie between rue du Temple and rue des Archives), Tel. 01 42 77 10 20. Reasonable menu deals and my favorite Thai restaurant in Paris. I especially like their red curry and coconut flan. Open every day.
**Au Petit Thai (4th) 4 rue roi de Sicile, Tel. 01 42 72 75 75. In a traditional 17th century house, cozy but at the same time lively atmosphere. The food had more of a kick, more flavor than most Thai restaurants. Excellent wine and cocktail list, friendly neighborhood feel.
Aloi (6th), 7 rue Ciseaux, Tel. 0143260043. Reasonable menu deals and good curries.
Restaurant Siamin (8th) 19 rue Bayard. Tel: 01 42 63 48 18. The 3-course lunch menu (€22) is a good deal.
**Asianwok (11th) 63 rue Oberkampf, Tel. 01 43 57 63 24 / Mobile 06 29 27 10 48. Closed Sundays. You would never suspect that this little restaurant out in the 11th would have such incredible and authentic Asian food. Thai food is the specialty of the warm and friendly owner, Cédric Ung. You can’t go wrong if you ask him to pick your dishes for you. But my favorite item is not the food at all. It’s their secret recipe tea-infused champagne.
Blue Elephant (11th) 43 Rue Roquette, Tel: 01 47 00 42 00. In a large and lively space, Blue Elephant may be pricey (€20 – 26 for most mains or €48 for a 3-course menu) but the food is flavorful, ingredients fresh and portions larger than normal for Paris.
Sukho Thai (18th) 44 Rue Custine, Tel. 01 46 06 45 78. Excellent Thai food and perhaps the only one on this list that really knows what spicy means. Closed Mondays.

American/pubs/burgers:

**Ferdi’s (1st ) 32, Rue Mont Thabor, Tel: 01 42 60 82 52. Best burgers in Paris (get the MacArthur). It’s actually a Spanish tapas place too with good mixed drinks, but the burgers are what it’s known for.
Joe Allen (1st) 30, rue Pierre Lescot (right at Etienne Marcel metro), Tel. 01 42 36 70 13. The place to go if you are craving American pub food. It’s a bar and a restaurant: great burgers, steaks, American desserts, etc.
Razowki’s (1st) 38, Place Marché St Honoré, Tel. 01 42 96 53 20. Excellent burgers and huge variety (the singles are plenty big!) Also a large offering of salads, sandwiches.
**Schwartz’s Deli (4th) 16 Rue des Ecouffes (and other locations), Tel. 01 48 87 31 29. Open Tuesday 12h–15h, 19h30-23h. American deli favorites done right: pastrami sandwiches, mac n’ cheese, burgers, cheesecake. They don’t take reservations.
Breakfast in America (5th) 17, Rue Ecoles, Tel.: 01 43 54 50 28. Open at 8:30am, name says it all. It couldn’t hold a match to a real New York diner, but it’s about as close as we get in Paris.
Loulou Friendly Diner (5th) 90 Blvd Saint-Germain, Tel. 01 46 34 86 64. A new addition, probably the best American diner in Paris. It’s still not 100% American but I’d say a good 95%. There are a number of options for real American brunch fare and the diner is open 7 days/week.
Pizza Girl (6th) 132 Rue De Vaugirard, Tel: l 01 45 49 12 12 and other locations. I would say this is by far the best pizza in Paris that you can get for home delivery, and delivery was quite quick as well even on a super cold winter night!
Happy Days Diner (6th), 25 Francisque Gay, Tel. 01 43 29 67 07. Authentic American 50s décor. Great burgers, lemonade, milkshakes. There’s now a new location in the Marais too (Archives/Saint Croix de la Bretonnerie) Stay away from the brunch (eggs, etc.) though—it’s awful.
Coffee Parisian (6th), Metro Odeon, 4 rue de Princesse, 01 43 54 18 18. American breakfasts, brunch, good burgers, bagels, nachos. Great milkshakes.
Le Vin (20) de Bellechasse (7th), 20 rue de Bellechasse, Tel. 01 47 05 11 11. It’s actually a small, non-fancy but fairly lively French restaurant, but they have excellent cheeseburgers.
Bugsy’s (8th), 15 rue Montalivet, Tel 01 42 68 18 44. Irish pub and possibly the best burgers in Paris after Ferdi’s (although cheaper than Ferdi’s).
**Big Fernand (9th) 55 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, Tel. 01 47 70 54 72, Open Mon – Sat 12h – 14h30 and 19h – 22h30. Probably the best burgers in Paris; possibly the best burgers anywhere. Pick one of their classics or build your own burger (beef, chicken or veal). Don’t be scared off by the line – it moves quickly.

Indian:

Les Sommets de l’Himalaya (4th) 73 rue Saint Martin, Tel, 01 44 59 37 76. I was shocked that this Indian restaurant right in the middle of Les Halles was actually quite good (for Parisian Indian food). Service is friendly and efficient.
Ravi (7th), 50, rue de Verneuil, Tel. 01 42 61 17 28. Pricey but very good. Exotic yet cozy décor.
Simla Hill (8th), 9 Rue Lord Byron, Tel. 01 43 59 06 40. A quiet place; pricey but very good preparation and fine quality foods.
Villa Punjab (17th) 15, rue Léon Jost. Tel. 01 42 67 58 99. A bit out of the way and rather cheezy décor but the food is just as good as at Ravi and Simla Hill and it’s much more reasonably priced.

Moroccan:

Le 404 (3rd), 69 rue des Gravilliers, 75003, Tel: 01 42 71 20 38, M°: Arts et Métiers. Le 404 has become a bit of a scene, but the food is still good and the décor is quite amazing. Just down the street is Andy Wahloo, a great Moroccan-themed, fun but not pretentious bar.

Lebanese/Middle Eastern:

**Liza (2nd), 14 rue de la Banque, Tel. 01 55 35 00 66. Fabulous décor, quiet restaurant, excellent authentic Lebanese food.
**Pitzman (4th) 8 Rue Pavée, Tel. 01 42 71 17 17. Slightly more traditional than L’As du Falafel. Excellent falafel at only €5.50 to go or €6.50 eating in. Various other kosher dishes as well.
L’As du Falafel (4th) 34 rue des Rosiers, Tel. 01 48 87 63 60. By no means a fancy eatery but generally known as the best falafel in town. Long lines for take-out but often shorter lines to eat on site.
Chez Marianne (4th) 2, Rue des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais (Tel. 01 42 72 18 86). Just off rue des Rosiers. Small and quiet. Excellent middle eastern foods, especially assortment of small dishes and desserts.
**Le Bois Le Vent (16th) 59 rue de Boulainvilliers, Tel.: 01 45 27 62 23. This Lebanese restaurant delivers all over Paris, and will even cater for larger parties. They offer a good variety and the food is fresh and tasty.

Sushi/Japanese:

**Kong (1st) 1, rue du Pont-Neuf (5th floor of the Kenzo store) Tel. 01 40 39 09 00. See above under “French”.
[Le magnifique (1st) 25, rue de Richelieu. It’s actual a lounge/bar but they have excellent, very fresh sushi (albeit a bit pricey and not a huge variety).][Temporarily closed]
**Azabu (6th) 3 Rue André Mazet , Tel. 01 46 33 72 05. More than a meal, it’s an experience. I recommend going with just one other person and sitting at the bar so you can see the chefs preparing the meals. You must reserve in advance. It’s not cheap but the food is incredible and copious.
Orient Extrême (6th) 4 Rue Bernard Palissy, Tel. 01 45 48 92 27. A definite splurge and a bit too trendy for my tastes, but the food is well worth it. The black miso cod melts in your mouth.
**Wrap N Roll Sushi (9th) 10 rue Budapest, Tel. 01 56 92 02 13. It was very tempting to keep this place a secret, but reluctantly I am sharing. For everyone who misses “California-style” sushi (spider rolls, dragon rolls, etc.) this is your place. And the prices are amazingly cheap for the high quality of the fish.
For cheaper sit-down sushi or take-out/delivery try either Sushiwest.fr (very good, fresh, somewhat more limited selection as it’s Kosher) or Sushishop.fr (smaller portions but better choice of side dishes). I prefer Sushiwest but you need a back-up as it’s Kosher and closed Friday and/or Saturday nights.
**Les jardins de Takako (17th) 9 Rue Brey. 01 53 81 77 40. My new favorite lunch spot. There are only 3 tables with 4 seats each. Fresh sushi dishes and cooked mains as well. Their signature miso eggplant side dish is addictive. Very friendly atmosphere.
Zenzan (17th) 4, rue Brey. Tel.: 01 53 81 00 75. Great quality Japanese food for around €20 euros per plate. More selection and less busy for dinner than for lunch.
Nakamura (17th) 25 Rue Brey, Tel. 01 40 55 96 72. A tiny, family-run authentic Japanese restaurant tucked away near Etoile. Excellent Japanese curries.

Korean:

**Maison Marais (4th) 3 Rue Ferdinand Duval, Tel. 01 48 87 28 15. Cozy, excellent bibimbap in a warm stone bowl, reasonable prices.
**Restaurant Bibimbap (5th) 32 Boulevard de l’Hôpital, Tel. 01 43 31 27 42, kwonyoungchul@hotmail.com. The best Asian food I’ve had in Paris that doesn’t blow the budget. €23 – €28 will buy you a plentiful 2-course meal with fresh ingredients and efficient service. Open Sundays as well.

Chinese:

Chez Vong (1st) 10, rue de la Grande Truanderie (Tel. 01 40 26 09 36). The food is close to American-style Chinese food, not too heavy, fantastic décor (a running stream in the room!), but a bit pricey. Near metros Etienne Marcel and Les Halles. Closed Sundays.
El Canton (6th) 5, rue Gozlin—not bad for take-out or eating in.
Lao Tseu (7th) 209, Blvd St-Germain Paris, Tel.: 01 45 48 30 06. Small portions and pricey but good by French standards for Chinese food!
Zen Garden (8th) 15, rue Marbeuf, Tel.: 01 53 23 82 82. A bit pricey but quite good food. The €19 or €27 lunch menus are a good deal.
Chez Ly (8th) 25 rue de la Boetie, Te. 01 42 65 42 99, (and other locations). It’s hard to find good Chinese food in Paris. Still not on par with most Chinese food in the U.S. or UK, but it will definitely hit the spot if you are craving Chinese food.
Wok (11th) 25 rue des Taillandiers, Tel. 01 55 28 88 77. A change of pace from your typical Parisian eatery, this Chinese restaurant allows you to make-your-own stir-fry–pick your veggies, protein and sauce and the chefs will cook it up right in front of you. Prices are quite reasonable (€20 or so per person).
**Le Bambou Royal (17th) 8 Rue Troyon, Tel.: 01 43 80 86 06. Neither the interior nor the location are anything special, but it’s the best Chinese food I’ve had in Paris. Don’t get the fixed price menu – order à la carte and don’t hesitate to ask for the dishes spicy (épicé) if that’s your style. I especially like the shrimp with black mushrooms and the sizzling shrimp or sizzling scallops. The wonton soup (soupe aux raviolis de crevettes) is also quite good.

Vietnamese:

Au Coin des Gourmets (1st) 38, rue du Mont-Thabor, Tel.: 01 42 60 79 79. Mix of Cambodian, Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine. There is also a location in the 5th by Maubert-Mutualité.
Tan Dinh (7th), 60 rue de Verneuil. Tel 01 45 44 04 84. Quite pricey (Could run you €60 per person) but very good food (considered to be the best Vietnamese food in Paris) and great wine list.
Le Palanquin (17th) 4 Place Boulnois, Tel. 01 43 80 46 90. Closed weekends, excellent Vietnamese food and very friendly owner.

Argentine:

Clasico Argentino – Empanadas & Helado (3rd) 56 rue de Saintonge and other locations, Tel. 01 44 61 00 56. Great for a snack or a light lunch.
See also “Anahi” under “Steak” above.

German:

Le Stube (1st), 31, rue de Richelieu, Tel. 01 42 60 09 85, e-mail: lestube@numericable.fr. For take-out or eating sur place, you can eat well and cheap here. Soft pretzels, inventive salads, traditional hearty German dishes and (what I am most drawn to) the delicious strudels. Open Mondays 10h to 15h30 and Tues-Sat 10h to 22h.

Late Night:

Au Pied du Cochon (1st), 6, rue Coquillière, Tel.: 01 40 13 77 00. Serves food 24 hours. A bit of an institution.
Le Pub St. Germain (6th), 17, rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, Tel.: 01 43 29 38 70. Serves food 24 hours. Good place to sit and have a drink, though it can be noisy. The food (mix of French, pub food, Italian, salads, sandwiches, etc.) is a bit hit or miss but can be quite good—go for the mushroom risotto if you’re inclined—probably the best food on the left bank after 11pm, but be prepared for horrible service. On the several occasions I have tried to order a burger without mayo or “special sauce” (i.e. mayo) it’s turned into a full-fledged argument.

Ice Cream:

**Pozzetto (4th) 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile, Tel.: 01 42 77 08 64. I don’t know how it took me so long to try Pozzetto. The selection is smaller than at some other gelato places in Paris, but it’s because the gelato is made fresh daily (and the shop is run by real Italians). Pozzetto also has a selection of coffees and a couple of tables for those who want to eat/sip sur place.
**Amorino has the widest selection of Italian gelato. In the 6th (rue de Buci or rue Guisarde by St. Sulpice)—the 5th (rue de la Huchette and rue Vavin), 3rd (rue Vieille du Temple), Ile-St-Louis (rue St. Louis) and a bunch of other locations as well….
**Grom (6th) 81 rue de Seine. Grom is pretty close to the real thing and has a few tables outside on rue de Seine for great people watching.
Berthillon—the famous French ice cream. The original one is on Ile-St.-Louis but there are other places around that serve it. (I still prefer the gelato places.)

Baguettes/Bakery & Pastries:

La Boule Miche (“artisan boulanger”) 19, rue du Dragon (6th), Your basic baked goods and pastries, sandwiches, salads and the cheapest café crème in town at 1.60 euros. Get the roule pistache if they have it! It’s like a pain au raisin but with pistachio cream.
Bread & Roses (6th), 7 rue de Fleurus, Tel. 0142 22 06 06. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs (see above under “Tea/Lunch”).
Lili’s (6th), 35 rue du Dragon, Tel. 01 45 49 25 03. Yummy U.S.-style baked goods, coffees and more… not exactly like you would find in the U.S. but very close.
Poilâne Paris – Cherche-Midi bakery (6th) 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, Tel 01 45 48 42 59 Opening hours: From Monday to Saturday, 7:15 am to 8:15 pm—famous bakery, also a great shop next door for lunch (see above under “Tea/Lunch”).
Julien (boulangerie) (7th) on St Dominique between Rue Amelie and Rue de la Comete. Mouth watering pastries, classic looking shop.
Patisserie Poujauran (7th), 20, Jean-Nicot just north of St. Dominique, Tel.: 01 47 05 80 88. Worth the trip.

Groceries:

There are supermarkets all around town. I tend to frequent either the Monoprix, which also has some clothes and other home goods or Carrefour City or Franprix on Sunday mornings or later at night. I also love Picard. I highly recommend that you visit one of the Picards while you are here even if you don’t plan to cook, because it’s a wonderful concept. It’s all frozen foods but actually quite good quality products and one of the few deals in Paris. You can even get pre-cooked whole frozen lobsters for €5.50-8.50 each (depending on the season)!
Market on Ave Raspail (6th, between rue Cherche Midi and Rue de Rennes)—Tuesday & Friday (7:30am-2pm or so), Sunday (organic market, 8am-2:30/3pm or so).
Marché St. Germain (between Odeon, St. Sulpice, Mabillon, food market entrance is on south side). Open Mon-Sat 8h-13h30, 15h30-20h or so. Smaller than Raspail market but it’s got some great stands, cheaper than supermarket prices, very fresh produce, meat, fish, dairy, etc. Great Greek stand as well.
Other great open-air markets: rue Cler (7th), rue Daguerre (14th) (open Sundays) and the Marché d’Aligre (12th). Click here for all the open-air markets in Paris.
Le Grand Epicérie (7th), rue de Sevres (just past the Bon Marché department store). Gourmet and international foods. It’s a supermarket but with a lot of prepared foods too. Worth going to look around even if you don’t buy anything.

Bars:

**Verjus (1st) 47 rue de Montpensier (wine bar) / 52 rue Richelieu (restaurant), Tel. 01 42 97 54 40. This new wine bar run by Laura and Braden of Hidden Kitchen welcomes you warmly into its adorable stone-vaulted setting. Order wine by the glass or bottle and if you are hungry, pick from small plates or wait just a couple of weeks for the restaurant upstairs to open.
**Ô Chateau (1st) 68, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Tel. 01 44 73 97 80, contact@o-chateau.com. Formerly for wine tastings only, they recently opened a wine bar with wine by the bottle or by the small, medium or large glass, and a limited food menu. It’s a great way to try out new and nicer wines. Tasting rooms open for private parties or sign up for a group wine tasting.
**Le Café Marly (1st) in the Louvre (Tel. 01 49 26 06 60, technically 93 Rivoli but it’s in the courtyard of the Louvre by the big glass pyramid). Great view of Louvre from terrace. Really a restaurant but you can grab a drink on the terrace during non-peak hours. I recommend going to catch sunset and then staying to see the lights come on around the Louvre.
**Wine by One (1st) 9 rue des Capucines, Tel. 01 42 60 85 76. An absolutely brilliant concept whereby you purchase a debit card that allows you to serve yourself from among 100 different wines and champagnes, ranging from very inexpensive and quite expensive. See my post for more details.
**Caveau Montpensier (1st) 15 Rue de Montpensier, Tel.: 01 42 60 12 89. Along the Palais Royal, this French wine bar meets Moroccan lounge is cozy and spacious at the same time. A friendly place to grab a drink both pre-dinner and post. Be sure to say hello to “Blue”, the resident Dalmatian.
**Le Gobelet d’Argent (1st) rue de la Petite Truanderie. In this quieter corner of Les Halles, this tiny laid-back bar is an ecclectic mix of near-haunted house and retro.
Le Ballroom du Beef Club (1st) 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Tel.: 09 52 52 89 34. Hidden in the basement, the elegance of this place is surprising. It’s not cheap, but no cocktail bars in Paris are. Not pretentious as some of these new-trend bars are though. Be sure to look up at the tin ceiling.
Victoria Cross (1st) 23 Avenue Victoria, Tel.: 01 40 26 15 68. This friendly place is an odd mix of modern, British and American diner. The pizzas are not the best in Paris but good by pub standards and for later night food, and the music will be sure to boost your mood.
Ritz Bars (1st)—for super pricey (28-30 euros/drink) but a real experience… the Ritz Bar and the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz (15, Place Vendome)
Hotel Costes (1st) 239, rue St-Honoré, Tel. 01 42 44 50 25. I still have yet to try Hotel Costes’ restaurant, but if you want the experience of this posh top hotel and restaurant without (all) the price, get dressed up and grab a drink in the bar area. It won’t be cheap, but sip slowly and drink in the atmosphere.
Le magnifique (1st) 25, rue de Richelieu. Chic but chill lounge/bar, probably better mid-week. They also have great sushi.
Willie’s Wine Bar (1st) 13, Rue Petits Champs, Tel: 0142610509. About 10 stools at a small bar, huge wine list.
Le Fumoir (1st) 6, rue de l’Amiral-de-Coligny, Tel: 01 42 92 00 24. See above under “Tea/Lunch”—open until 2am every day for drinks and bar food.
La Garde Robe (1st) 41 rue de l’Arbre Sec, Tel. 01 49 26 90 60. A small and cozy wine bar that also serves cheese and charcuterie to nibble on.
**Harry’s New York Bar (2nd) 5, Rue Daunou Tel. 01 42 61 71 14. Really two bars in one: upstairs it’s a traditional, tin-ceiling bar; downstairs a piano bar with red velvet seats. Definitely worth a visit.
**L’Ivress (2nd) 5 Rue Poissonnière, Tel. 01 42 21 90 26. Despite the name (“Drunkenness”), this wine bar is actually a relatively sophisticated (yet unpretentious) venue. The staff is quite friendly. Just beware that they close on the early side for a bar (generally around 11pm).
35 Tours (2nd) 35 rue Saint Sauveur, Monday to Saturday: 18h30 – 2h. A refreshingly quiet bar for the heart of Montorguiel. Very friendly service.
Au Rocher de Cancale (2nd), 78 rue Montorgueil, Tel. 01 42 33 50 29. It’s a restaurant (not just a bar) and their tuna tartare with avocado and sesame seeds is fresh and delicious, but what I like most about this venue is the friendly service and that they will give you a table even if it’s just for a drink and not for a meal.
Le Coeur Fou (2nd) 55 rue Montmartre, Tel.: 01 42 33 91 33. A small, relaxing and not too pricey bar for a beer, a glass or wine or more creative cocktails. Open every day from 5pm – 2am.
Le Cercle (2nd) 6 rue Etienne Marcel, Tel. 01 42 36 98 57, contact@leclubducercle.fr. Tues-Sat 18h to 2h. Quiet, library-like bar with a lot of space and cozy armchairs. If you’re hungry, you can order food from the hotel next door until 1h30am. Extremely friendly service.
La Conserverie (2nd) 37 bis rue du Sentier. Tel. 01 40 26 14 94/info@laconserverie.eu. Open 6pm-2am Mon-Sat. Just opened in Aug 2009. Relaxed, friendly, lounge atmosphere, not too loud during the week. They serve dinner as well.
Experimental Cocktail Club (2nd) 37 Rue St-Sauveur, Tel. 01 45 08 88 09. Small, cozy, 18th –century French building with a huge assortment of cocktails.
**Le Barav (3rd) 6 Rue Charles-François Dupuis, Tel. 01 48 04 57 59. My favorite new wine bar: run next door to buy a bottle of wine from their shop and for €5 more, they will open the bottle for you in the bar. They serve food as well (including excellent salads).
Candaleria (3rd) 52 rue de Saintonge, Tel. 03 42 74 41 28. This hole-in-the-wall Mexican joint with a trendy New York-style bar hidden through the back door was a wonderful spot until unfortunately it was discovered by the trend-seekers. It’s still worth a visit for the cheap tacos or a more expensive cocktail earlier in the week.
Andy Wahloo (3rd) 69 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd, M° Arts-et-Métiers or Rambuteau, Tel 01 42 71 20 38. A great art deco/Moroccan-themed, fun but not pretentious bar.
**Pamela Popo (4th) 15 Rue François Miron, Tel.: 01 42 74 14 65. See also above under “French”. Small bar downstairs (open every day 18h – 2h).
La Belle Hortense (4th) 31 Rue Vieille du Temple, Tel. 01 48 04 71 60. A small and inviting bookshop/wine bar, the perfect stop for an early evening drink.
Le Petit Fer à Cheval (4th) 30 Rue Vieille du Temple, Tel. 01 42 72 47 47. Across the street from and same owners as La Belle Hortense, this tiny, traditional bar also has seating for full meals in the back.
Le Lizard Lounge (4th), 18, rue du Bourg-Tibourg, Tel. 01 42 72 81 34. Relatively calm place in the Marais for drinks and they also have food (pub fare).
**La Cremerie (6th) 9 rue des Quatre Vents, Tel. 01 43 54 99 30. Great place to grab a glass of wine not during meal hours but can you really go and not get the burrata?
**L’Hôtel (6th) 13 rue des Beaux-Arts. Tel.: 01 44 41 99 00. A quiet, relaxing atmosphere to grab a drink and sit and stay a while, beautiful décor, though pricey.
**Ralph Lauren (6th) 173 Boulevard St Germain, Tel. 01 44 77 76 00. The setting for food or just drinks is unbeatable, both inside and out. Sit back and relax on the large terrace or try the wood-paneled bar inside. If you’re lucky, they will give you some homemade caramel popcorn with your drinks. The only caveat–you need to arrive during non-meal times if you are just looking for a tea or glass of wine.
Café les Editeurs (6th), 4, carrefour de l’Odéon, Tel : 01 43 26 67 76. Has food as well but especially nice for an afternoon/evening drink.
Le Procope (6th) 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, Tel.: 01 40 46 79 00. Great for wine, tea, escargot. Opened in 1686 and was supposedly the first restaurant to serve coffee.
Au Père Louis (6th), 38 Rue Monsieur la Prince. Good mix of people—not pretentious, old building with character, wine is not too expensive. They have a restaurant too but it’s usually pretty crowded.
Le Bar du Marché (6th), 75 rue de Seine, Tel. 01 43 26 55 15. An excellent spot for a terrace and for people watching.
La Palette (6th), 43 Rue de Seine. French brasserie atmosphere, good for low key sit-down drinks and the large terrace.
Bouillon Racine (6th) 3, rue Racine, Tel. 01 44 32 15 60. Great décor/ambiance. Really a restaurant but it has a neat little bar that’s great for just grabbing one drink with a friend.
Rue des Canettes (6th, by St. Sulpice)—plenty of options for wine bars, pubs, etc., though it’s a pretty young crowd: The Frog ’N Princess (9 rue Princesse), Little Temple Bar (12 rue Princesse), Chez George (11 rue des Canettes: wine bar upstairs and dancing downstairs), Café Six (19 rue des Canettes, corner or Guisarde).
Le Prescription Cocktail Club (6th) 23, rue Mazarine, Tel. 01 45 08 88 09. The crowd is a bit overly trendy for me but it’s a neat space so I like to go before the rush.
Au Sauvignon (7th), corner of rue des Saints-Pères and Rue des Sèvres. Well-known but not pretentious wine bar. Looks like a little brasserie but good selection of wines, brasserie-type food. Not open late but good for a late afternoon, early evening glass of wine.
**Apicius (8th), 20, Rue d’Artois, Tel. 01 43 80 19 66. A restaurant/tea room/bar in an old château (though modern décor inside). Great for a drink on the terrace on a summer evening. Closed weekends (open Mon-Fri Noon-3:30pm, 6:45pm-1am).
Bugsy’s (8th)—Irish pub, see above under “American/pubs”.
Buddha Bar (8th), 8 Rue Boissy d’Anglais (Metro: Concorde), very chic and a bit pretentious, a bit pricey, but worth a trip for the décor (Tel. 01 53 05 90 00)
Showcase (8th), under the Pont Alexandre III (rive droite). One of the only clubs on this list; worth a visit for the setting.
**Le Café Carmen (9th) 22 rue de Douai, Tel: 0145 26 50 00. It’s a former private home turned brothel turned private home again, and now an historic monument; it’s where Georges Bizet wrote Carmen, hence the name. A bit expensive but they have innovative cocktails and the décor is well worth the visit. Best mid-week as it gets crowded on weekends.
Le Déli-cieux (9th) 64 Boulevard Haussmann, Tel. 01 42 82 62 76. This roof top terrace above Le Printemps department store has basic cafeteria food and drink options but the view of Paris from way up there is spectacular. Don’t forget your camera!
**CopperBay (10th) 5 Rue Bouchardon, Open 6PM – 2AM Tuesday – Sunday. My favorite cocktail bar! See my full post here and 52 Martini’s post on the secret menu.
Hôtel du Nord (10th) 102 quai de Jemmapes (along the Canal St. Martin) Tel.: 01 40 40 78 78. See above under “French”.
Alimentation Générale (11th) 64 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Tel. 01 43 55 42 50. Live music Wednesday through Sunday nights, casual atmosphere. Food served as well.
Cafe Charbon (11th) 109 rue Oberkampf. Decent food, good for drinks early in the evening and dancing later in the evening.
Mojita & Bob (11th) 3 rue Oberkampf, Tel.: 01 58 30 88 59. A lively spot for drinks where you can also snack on delicious Spanish-style tapas. Open Tues-Fri 12h-15h and 18h-2h, Sat 18h-2h, Sun 16h-midnight.
Barrio Latino (12th), 46 rue Faubourg Saint-Antoine, Tel: 01 55 78 84 75. Huge, impressive building with a mix of latin and other pop music. €20 euros cover includes one drink—best strategy is probably to go for dinner then stay to dance. Open 11am-2am daily.
Hôtel Raphael (16th), 17 avenue Kléber. Very expensive but the rooftop restaurant/bar is a great experience on a warm day/evening.
La Gare (16th), 19 chaussee Muette, Tel 01 42 15 15 31. Restaurant and bar, nice modern décor, great terrace out back.
Bar Au Rêve (18th) 89 rue Caulaincourt (Metro Lamarck-Caulaincourt (line 12)), Tel. 01 46 06 20 87 (Open noon-2 am. Closed Sunday, and Monday till 6 pm). Very small, old school, unpretentious and cheap. Not a lot of selection but worth a visit if you are in the neighborhood. Don’t drink too much—squat toilet only!
Café Parisien (19th) 2 place Rhin et Danube, Tel. 01 42 06 02 75. A pleasant stop for a drink or a bite to eat when you are in the 19th, by Buttes Chaumont or Mouzaïa. The interior is cozy and there is a fair bit of seating outside in nicer weather.
Rosa Bonheur (19th)—see above under “French” above.